“Plique A Jour” is a French term that means “braid letting in daylight”. The term refers to the technique in which enamel is applied in cells, similar to cloisonné, but with no backing. This allows light to shine through the transparent or translucent enamel and form a beautiful stained glass like appearance.
An absolutely breathtaking and rare plique-à-jour pin from the Art Deco (ca1920) era! This stunning brooch is particularly large in size and crafted in sterling silver and 18kt yellow gold, forming a fabulous curvilinear ornate shape with lovely scalloped edges. While no hallmark could be found, this piece is highly representable of Boucheron Paris jewelry that was founded by Frederic Boucheron in 1858. The jewelry house was known for using unusual gemstone combinations, lacy gold metalwork embellished with diamonds, and plique-à-jour enameling. This piece also comes in what appears to be its original box that is stamped with “Bourcheron Paris” on the inside lid.
Adorning the center of the pin is an incredible oval-shaped natural turquoise cabochon, which exhibits a vibrant robin’s egg blue color accented by naturally occurring veins of deep brown (known as “matrix”), giving the stone a striking marbled appearance. Encircling the bezel set stone is a gorgeous border of black enameled leaf motifs that fan outward, each one slightly curving upward at the tip. Surrounding the centerpiece is a pattern of textured gold curved veins that alternate with silver diamond lined veins, creating a marvelous mixed metals feather-like appeal. The sparkling bead-set accent diamonds are surrounded by fine milgrain detail and the gold bands display a wonderful layered etching detail. Resting in between some of the veins are incredible cerulean blue plique-à-jour enameled cells, which are individually separated by vibrant gold webbing. Dangling from each scalloped edges at the base are elegant natural pearl beads, providing wonderful movement to the ornate design.
Resting on the back is a pull clasp that securely fastens the long bar pin to a favorite garment. Thanks to two side-by-side opens within the design of the brooch at the top edge, there is also the possibility to wear the pin as pendant, resting at the center of a favorite chain. Accompanying the piece is what appears to be the original velvet-lined ivory color box, where stamped inside the silk-lined lid is “Boucheron Paris.” It’s an incredible and artistic gemstone and plique-à-jour pin that would make fantastic addition to any collection!
Measurement: The pin measures approximately 2 1/4″ wide, slightly more than 1 1/2″ tall, and about 3/8″ thick.
Condition: The overall condition of the pin is excellent. Besides normal surface wear, there is no apparent damage to the sterling silver and yellow gold setting, or to the plique-à-jour enameling. All of the diamonds and pearl beads are intact and securely set. The pin clasp is secure and in good working condition. The box is in good antique condition, however some wear is noticeable on outside.
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